La colección de ropa llamada Marimacho presentó en la semana de la moda en New York, su linea de Primavera/Verano 2014 este pasado 7 de Septiembre formado por el duo Crystal González-Alé y Ivette González-Alé.
Marimacho Introduces The Future Dandy to New York
The brand subverted traditional gender norms with its New York Fashion Week Debut
NEW YORK CITY (September 7, 2013). Marimacho’s New York Fashion Week Debut Collection—Deep See—took us to Atlantis 2050. This future world served as the backdrop for the brand’s reimagining of identities and bodies. Form was revealed and concealed as a future dandy navigated the negative space between the monolithic and the fluid. The result were pieces that were classic and radical at once, that used fashion as a tool to subvert gender norms.
Building on the theme of identity and on Marimacho’s mission of “designing for and fitting diverse bodies,” the show included a diversity of bodies. Trans men, trans women, genderqueer people, masculine women and cis men all walked the runway, resisting the audience’s impulse to categorize their gender and inviting them to question their role in reinforcing those ideas. All wore the same collection and sometimes even the same piece in different colorways. There were Black, Latino, and Asian models sharing the runway—all of which are grossly underrepresented in mainstream fashion.
The clothing itself subverted classic menswear tropes with the use of non-traditional fabrics and modern cuts on varied bodies. Deep See – Marimacho’s Spring/ Summer 2014 Collection – featured a collection of modern pieces inspired by classic menswear. Oversized linen tuxedo shirts paired with futuristic, sleek harem pants, updating a traditional look. Each of the pieces in the collection cleverly played with vertical and horizontal lines, color-blocking and light, sheer fabrics to communicate the fluidity of gender. The sharp tailoring of the classic suit merged with the breeziness of a summer tank.
The Net Tank, for example, noted for its asymmetrical color blocking, featured sea foam mesh fabric that intentionally revealed the wearer’s bare chest. In contrast, the short-sleeved Vacation Shirts featured two pockets over the chest, mimicking the way female-bodied people bind their chest to achieve a masculine silhouette. Classic tailored suits were adapted for the Spring dandy, with sheer silk paneling and tailored shorts in place of trousers. Linen appeared constantly as a theme in the collection, alluding to denim for a structured look with breathability. Drawn from the hues of the ocean, the color-story involved notes of sea foam, dark green algae, bright coral, and shell cream. The full suit in the collection was made of lightweight cream wool with wood button details. The show closed with an asymmetrical shirt jacket in deep blue linen and a short in the same denim-evoking fabric. The complete collection exuded style while also provoking thought.
As Marimacho’s Creative Director, Ivette Gonzalez-Ale explained, “Marimacho’s Deep See Collection explores the full gamut of the ocean’s moods, dangers, and it’s possibilities for renewal, while encouraging its audience to embark on a journey of self-discovery.”
A pioneer in the current wave of androgynous fashion, MARIMACHO exists in the negative space between identity and fashion. While mainstream women’s designers simply allude to menswear, Marimacho unapologetically embraces masculine fashion without the euphemisms of feminine detail. They create masculine silhouettes adapted to fit those traditionally underserved by mainstream menswear–womyn, trans men, petite men, androgynous and genderqueer people.
Beauty Team: Karlo Karlo for Emani Vegan Cosmetics (Lead Makeup Artist) and Cesar Ramirez for Davines (Lead Hairsylist)